Leader Systems

There is no single best leader system that will give each lure 100% swim justice with 100% chafe guard.

Before anyone compares leader results, drag settings must surely come into analysis. I use nothing lighter than 80lb leader for barra in lakes, 100 lb in the salt for most lures. Those that call 50-60 lb leader a safe margin would most likely get chaffed off all day if I set their drag. It’s simple, the heavier the drag setting; the more chaffing. To me, 80 is too small, 100 lb is too big. In a charter game where fish boated is extremely important; it becomes especially appointed that leaders are up to standard. Hard body or soft plastic, the chafe possibility is equal. Some of my lures are fine line balanced which means a heavy leader or wire sector will destroy the finesse approach. I too struggle and stress my brain to come up with better leader systems. So far I'm not winning.

Fluorocarbon is great stuff in the right application; hard as nails. Twisted leaders work well for the right lures but then again not always matching some small fine bibbed lures we call upon. Water resistance and water pressures on leaders can steal some of the lime light from the lure. Give and take alright...................its midnight and I'm thinking about leaders. The answer will come one day.

 Leader sizes always come into their own when fish commit to a well presented lure. 80lb mono is bare minimum on our missions, a balance between lure workings and chafe guard is the guideline. The 80 lb mono leader was badly worn through. Barra that inhale lures and become hooked inside the mouth will almost always jump erratically during the fight damaging the leader. Prolonged fights on jumping fish should see an angler reduce the pressure to avoid being chaffed off!!

Leader Choices - Twisted or Single?

If twisted leaders were a fish catching improvement there would be many more anglers using them. When we look at ABT results for hours fished for fish boated it becomes very ugly. ( Yes, I know , not everyone is/was using twisteds). In the existing lake barra fisheries that vary from around 10-25+ yrs old, there is little clue needed to be dropped that lure presentation is near the top of the list of must do's in pressured waterways. Starting with rigging, there does need to be a lot of refinement from anglers if they wish to lift their catch rates, especially in the likes of ABT events with horribly frightening figures of hours fished per barra landed. Stats show that if an angler landed less than 1 fish per round of event they would end up in the top ten overall. That is a bit scary when it is broken down to about one barra landed roughly every 10 hours in competition time. I believe it is time anglers took another road when it comes to connecting fish to lines,,,,especially when it counts. If the fishing is easy, fencing wire on your lure will hook barra and we don't think twice about questioning our rigging, or our lure. When it is tough, or touchy, leader choice, lure balance and advanced lure presentation will help no end. If ya mate beside you is catching none also we don't automatically have to think it is a tough day.
Harro - light wire leaders
Wilhelm - single mono or fine wire the last time I looked
Myself - single mono
Taylors- single mono
3 out of these 5 anglers are guides who need to put clients onto barra in less than 5-6 hrs, amongst teaching anglers to cast and to retrieve.
The other two are ranked one and two in the country in lake fishing tournaments. Other key variables are at play, but a coincidence with leader choice stands well clear. We can all take our own track, but I wouldn't bother typing this if it wasn't to paint a helpful picture. Sometimes stats and future prognosis needs to displayed. Our fisheries won't get easier, we need to adapt to what is being created.

One point- the majority of leading barra anglers do not use twisted leaders. Single straight mono leaders or light wire for some is the first port of call.
A barra must be hooked before it can be lost. We could all use heavier, ugly twisteds and reduce chafe offs but that on its own is the major limiting factor that reduces strike rate initially. If you can't hook any fish, you certainly can't be chaffed off. The name of barra angling is to find a happy medium that allows finesse lure presentation on a leader that will allow fairly good chafe guard. In extremes, 80lb mono isn't good enough; neither is 100lb.
The Taylor guns have excelled in the lure presentation department and have accelerated in fish nous and tactical play. High rod angles are an important roll in some barra captures; much to the opposed thoughts of mainstream media. Low rod angles will not stop a barra that 'needs' to jump. They jump to rid a lure that is stuck inside the mouth or in situations where the lure impedes their mouth from closing neatly, regardless of rod angle in most cases. Also, allowing a large barra to jump tires a fish and allows an angler to keep better control of a fish much higher in the water column. A fish high in the water column is a fish that is now not thinking of cover or dirty snag tactics. Messing with their head is an art. Chafe offs are a sad fact, and learning when to soften the firm approach is also another skill that comes with a kazillion barra captures. The Taylors are highly developed anglers with plenty for us all to learn from; and they are still learning along the way.
Cheers
Johnny Mitchell

Lure Clips

I won't ever use a snap, yea sure they make lure changing much easier, but a snap is not a flawless connection considering the vigorous strengths and behaviours of an angry barra. It only takes one lost fish via a straightened snap to make you realise that there are better ways to connect terminal gear. Many versions of the perfection loop will do the job. After all, we try to eliminate weaknesses in our fishing tackle as to advantage ourselves for best success.

Two quick points- a snap can destroy the fine tuned balance and workings of a well manipulated barra lure. The last thing you want in finesse situations is a snap to cause more turbulence in front of a small lure.
Second point- You still have to tie a snap on, and you still have to re-tie the snap on once you land a fish, or when a missed strike causes scuff or bad chaffe. Either way, you are still tying a knot.
Ok, 3 points- Any fish can bite, jaw pressure can and is capable of opening snaps at times. The last thing I'd ever want on my line when a 40 kg fish jumps is a snap swivel in the equation. If one ever ends up in my tackle box from someone else's scattered belongings, I give it back ASAP.

Line Care

Treat your line and leaders like gold. Avoid line damage wherever possible. Lures cast into trees and constantly pulled hard trying to free the lure can damage your main line if it is in contact with tree limbs. Avoid this, go over in the boat and free your lure. Don't go bait fishing with your lure fishing outfit. Braided lines that settle amongst the bottom whilst bait fishing get damaged on the strike and as they are pulled passed rocks etc. Braid is so thin that it can be difficult to notice any damage. Keep a lure fishing outfit for that exact purpose. Whilst lure fishing, your braid usually stays mid water, well away from any damaging or harsh surfaces. Treat everything seriously, and add specific attention to your preparation, especially your knots and leaders, hooks and rings, and you are already halfway there toward landing good fish!

Hard Body lures Versus Soft Plastic Lures

I don't think HB will ever die out. Lures stimulate fish in different ways, and HB can do certain things that SP's cannot, and vice versa. Both lure styles fit in with everyday use, and HB lures work along different frequencies to soft lures so to speak. All types certainly have their place in the fishing game, but I feel it would be madness to walk away from HB lure presentations as it would be like removing 50% of your fishing capabilities. SP's are not 'everything!'

Straight retrieves can work wonders, but tonnes of fish follow lures and baits that aren't worked with the hand. Rods in holders often get a strike when u pull it out of the holder! It’s the same in most fishing scenes. Fish can swim mighty fast and often get bored with regularly and constantly moving food items, or lures etc. Vary the movement, and trick the fish into an impulsive and instinctive bite. Mess with their minds!!

Upgrading Hooks on Lures

Hook upgrades are mandatory for serious barra angling. The hooks on most barra lures, straight off the shelf, aren't usually up to the standard required. Upgrading to owner hooks in 4X, number 1 and sometimes even 1/0 on BIG lures is acceptable as long as the loss to the lure's working and catching ability is only minimal. The upgrade can change the action of the lure as characteristics like buoyancy and freedom of movement become altered by heavier hooks and the drag they create. If the lure cannot handle the upgrade, go and find another lure that will handle the change. Split rings in the Halco range are suitable; they also need to be upgraded in many cases. Finding a compromise between lure size and hook selection is critical, at times, specific hook choices are needed to create the best finesse possible. Be willing to try mixed hook sizes for best tuning. Line class is not the telling factor that destroys and straightens hooks and rings. The natural design of a barra's neck, his mouth, gill movement range, and the leverage and force created by the driving muscle groups are responsible for the damage. Tie a lure on 2kg line and a barra can still destroy your heavy terminals just through the physical forces at play. Heavy line and heavy drags can add to the problem, yet it is a secondary issue relating to this. Split ring pliers add the ability for ease of change, and you can swap hooks between lures if and when you so desire.

Hook Size

Too small of a hook gape will often see poor results in hook up rates and will more often than not see foul hooked fish with a lure's small hooks pinning a barra on the outside of the head, the face, the neck etc.

Barra have thick jaws, and hook gapes need to be wider than this size for maximum hook penetration ability. Many barra inhale lures deep in their mouth. Large gaped hooks stand alone for max hook up rates in this scenario. (Again, too much to explain here; but smart angler rod work increases hook up rates in this type of case. If a barra jumps early and you can't see your lure, "Strike hard" to help pin hooks as often a barra is just holding your lure deep within the clutches and contours of his cavernous mouth. (I could write a book explaining that one) Small hooks oh so often miss their mark when a large barra rejects your offering and opens his big gob and blows your lure back out! Manufacturer's often put nasty hooks on to save on the $$$$$$$$$! Big barra need specific upgrades. Cut corners and you will pay the price. There is so much to write on this topic.

Hook Placement

The barra, and many more that day took a liking to a lure that carried only a single treble. The barra were committing 100% to the offering and all takes saw the lure engulfed, but every fish just sat there after the strike and faced the angler without turning or moving. Because of the shape of the lure/ tow point and the treble placement the lure was being pulled straight back out of the barramundi's mouth after a few seconds. The barra would register something was up and simply open their mouth and the lure would be pulled/roll free without even touching the sides. The chunky lure body and the rolling occurrence were hiding the hook from effective operation. Chaffed line and no barra was the outcome after several missed opportunities. I removed the treble from below and added/glued it to the top of the lure. I found a size and placement mix from which maximum hook exposure now poked above the lure and this allowed the hook point to have first touch of the barra's mouth instead of last. It worked a treat; basically 100% hook up rate and an actual improvement in action from the lure. The following day saw a 100% hook up rate with the altered lure.

Tackle Variety

I buy all my tackle too Rod. My boat is full of varying brands of lures, rods, reels and sounders. I choose to use what works and does the job and if that means owning brands of all nature, well that’s what I have to do to have a collection of finely tuned tackle that suits the location, species and job at hand. In my boat if something is second rate, I'm only too happy to tell you. If it serves well, I'm good to share that too. All types of fishing gear and modern day equipment gets put through its paces in my boats. I'm yet to find flawless equipment which surprises me in the year 2008; then again, I'm not surprised actually, with competitive companies and mass production.

Rods and Reels

Rods and reels, they all sink don't they? Some of my charter rods and reels top $1000 and recovery is always on the cards. Gravity never stops on Awoonga. I have tried a multitude of reels from high end to low end to find the best value for money versus life expectancy.

So far the mid range Daiwa Freams Kix 3000 is doing ok for a $250.00 reel although it has one strange problem that can be fixed by the owner with a screw driver and some lock tite type material. It is a case that shouldn't slip passed after production line testing, but does. We used the Daiwa Excellors for a period. They caught hundreds of fish over time. We burnt out drags and gear boxes after a while, but at about $200.00 it was expected and they were easily replaced. The Daiwa Certate HD is about $600.00; time will tell if it's 3 times better.

Rods

I reply as such with my thoughts on clarifying this-
A rod is a tool, as a chisel is a tool. A more expensive chisel may hold its edge longer, or may be easier to use or grip. But most forms of angling, barra fishing especially can be bought back to basics. You can make fishing as scientific as you want it to be, or in the same sentence, bring it back down to its rawest form. A simple chiselling job can be performed with the simplest of chisels; a sharpened, ground file will produce the same result if it is all you have in your possession.
That $100 off the shelf rod that carries the necessary requirements that make it acceptable as a fishing tool for casting, hooking and landing barra will land the same numbers and quality barra as a top shelf well made rod. The top shelf rod matched to your reel will not automatically turn you into a whizz angler, nor will it make every strike stick, nor will it stop a hard running fish from pulling line from your reel. Successful angling goes beyond the tools at hand!
I'll happily barra fish with my choice of $100 rod beside any angler with a top shelf rod for equal results!
But yes, it is nice to drive a flash car on the freeway, much nicer than my old Ute, but either way, both cars make it to their final destination.
The art of angling comes back down to understanding the species we target, the capabilities of the lines we use, drag systems, reel gearing etc as well as the physics type relations when it comes to rods, fulcrums, leverage etc and also knowing when to pull, how to pull, and how to really control a hooked fish on a line. There is a lot more involved than having a nice outfit, and at the end of the day and experienced angler will bring greater results with lesser gear in hand, than an inexperienced angler with top shelf stuff.
Often, not one rod will do everything you wish for. Some rods, yes, are 'fine' rods, but when we start talking barra, and nowadays its dam barra that cop the most talk, anglers will find themselves in situations where a 40, 60 or70 lb fish, or even a hard fighting smaller one will be stickin' it to them. Many reels nowadays see 50lb braid attached and reels with drag systems capable of exerting a bit of serious pressure. Add to that, timber, unforgiving, unpredictable fish movements and anglers working their gear up towards the high end of its ability and you may just change your mind on what is a 'fine barra rod' and what is not a 'fine barra rod'. Broken rods are serious issues, especially at X hundred dollars apiece. I'm not de-noting top quality rods, but just making aware that all rods are not fool proof, and considering a lot of tussles with large barra can often end up in vertical style fights beneath a boat, rod angles can become severe and without warning and angler can break a rod, along with many other ways it can happen. To replace a rod at four to six hundred dollars is an expensive exercise that can’t be avoided. You can buy 2 or 3 other rods for the same money.

Pulling a camera out of a cool protected bag and into the external atmosphere can cause condensation to 'rapidly' occur on the lenses creating fuzzy, foggy shots. Try to keep the camera in places so temps match much closer to outside air temps. A mate of mine had his in a lunch esky for a short period while travelling- it was useless when it was time to take sunset shots on a warm afternoon.
Cheers

Tackle-Reels + Frequency Amplification

A finely tuned spin outfit = An outfit where the reel's size matches the rod length and weight, along with the spool diameter matching the size and spacing's of the guides. A careful selection of line diameter, weight and make/composition of the line that allows a smooth and fluent travel through the guides is an important mix, so too is a reel that is filled to the right height that allows the least possible friction on the spool lip when casting takes place. A rod that has a rear grip of reasonable length that allows an angler to impart energy from body to lure is essential to help attain maximum distances. A reel with fair gearing that when matched with spool size allows an angler to stay in touch with a fast fish that tracks towards an angler. (almost an everyday occurrence).
Also, A rod composition matched with correct line choice, mixed with a reel ratio that as a combined unit helps to amplify lure and line vibration to improve results is what I would call a finely tuned spin outfit.
There are some pretty poorly meshed outfits getting around that couldn't cast across a street, let alone allow for finesse, amplification, or accuracy to be attained. The higher the water resistance on the lure, the lower the gearing needs to be for ease of winding.
A deep diver with heavy resistance is easily worked with lower gearing. High speed luring or high speed techniques work equally well with hard or soft lure. High speed line retrieval helps during the hook-up stage, and assists the angler in staying in contact with fast moving fish; a daily occurrences in barra lakes. High speed reels minimise slack line, but the trade off is too fast of a line recovery when trying for super slow presentations, even with dead slow handle winds.
Almost any reel will do the job, regardless of gear ratio, but when you get serious about it all, you will find that some gearing doesn't quite suit some jobs. Two reels with different ratios are often the answer. Spin tackle can slot in amongst this discussion for its position in the game- varied spool diameters, varied gear ratios, mixed handle sizes, even rod length can all join in to produce a greater balanced outfit for the task being asked.
Another point to consider when purchasing your reel is its gear ratio. Most overlook the fact and just buy a brand name reel. Some bait casters come in high speed versions which allow increased retrieval speeds for certain luring scenarios. Some can be geared too high for certain low speed, high resistance lures. Just have a think about it before you buy , that's all. Think of paper cups on a string line that created a kids telephone, a way to communicate over the fence to your neighbours house. Pull the string tight if you want to hear the 'voice'. Different string sizes, different cups = a different sound wave.
The combination of lure, line diameter, rod material, rod angle, line sag, wet weight, cast angle, current flow, wind speed, winding speed and so on all adds up as one and creates it's own sonic type frequency. A lure is just maybe 10% of the equation here. Too deep for most to accept, but alive and kicking far above almost any other concept, especially when you notice it day after day after day. Each lure is best swum on a different outfit. Off to work now, in 25 knots of SE wind, and yes, I will be very specific with what lures, weights and outfits I select for clients to cast in these conditions.

No two lures are ever the same, no two outfits are ever identical either, and no two anglers fish exactly the same. In just this alone, the retrieve pattern of any lure is subtly different and therefore results will be usually far contrasted, unless the fish are super hungry and rip into anything which is not common.
To open up another chapter that will blow your mind is 'frequency absorption' and 'frequency amplification'. It is too deep to go into here as most wouldn't understand it. A few copy cats exist out there too, so some stuff I'll keep for my own publications. To expand for you- yes there are times when one angler will far out fish his companion and vice versa, depending on lure size, weight, water resistance, line class and rod selection. One lure choice may see you create a gun combination- a simple lure swap may kill your chances completely. If I expanded on this one anglers would lose interest in fishing quickly as it does become so deep that simple thoughts get us into trouble. The first step for you was to notice that differences in results do exist, the second is to now identify why it happened and to make sure you control it in the future. One mm is one mile.

Heavy Tackle Fishing

On the drifting side topic- heavy handed skull drag fishing is a very fine art, that again, is on a skill set similar to an A grade race driver. Those anglers still climbing the 'intermediate learning ladder' will change their minds a few times as years go by. It is part of the cycle of learning. A natural circle- we all do it.
I still shake my head, but hold my tongue, and then try my best to describe certain scenarios to teach anglers. Eg, Anyone who fishes what they call heavy, locked up drag for barra in tight country with anything less than suitable hooks and even with 60 lb leader is kidding themselves before they start. Dragging fish from heavy cover requires, timing, the right tackle, a head full of past experience and so on. It can't be done repeatedly and successfully by a newbie. Heavy reels, drags, lines, leaders, hooks, rings, lures and so on can be used ever effectively, and the enjoyment of watching an angler and a boat operator work together as one unit to land the prized fish in evil country does leave a smile a mile wide. "Poetry in motion"
If the gear used isn't a suitable mix, poor landing ratios will result. There is still plenty of circumstances in lakes for 40-50 lb braid, 8 kg of drag, and smart fish fighting. Skilled anglers with 20lb braid will out fish a lot with 50lb braid, even in heavy timber.

Rod Angles/Technique Improvement

Fishing is another sport, but in this sport, most players don't have coaches, so anglers can only monitor themselves with their own ideas. Fishing guides coach, and I'd be pretty certain that technique, right from lure presentation, to drag settings, rod angles, rod choice, response time, and boat positioning could all be adjusted to give you a better result with a b52. In my experience in salt and fresh; they are a dynamite lure in fisheries with keen barra. In tough fisheries, like many lakes at present they are as good, or as bad, as any other lure in your box. ( is the cup half full?)
From here, at home, the first things I'd list as important factors to increase neat takes and hook up ratios would be-
* Lure presentation- timely so fish have opportunity to inhale at a steady lure and not an erratic unpatterned technique. A fish that has to attack a moving erratic lure will often miss with the mouth- hooks pin elsewhere.
* Rod position on pause- line tension is also important. Rod tips pointing at the lure; almost.
* A fast strike response, and super fast rate of line recovery, and secondary striking is important.
* Drifting boats that don't offer a solid base platform on hook-up don't help the cause. Choosing casting angles or securing the boat with electric holding power, or anchoring or tree tying will give solid base to hook fish from.
A big B52 has 9 hook points- we really can't blame the lure, especially in an inhale situation. The way in which the barra approaches and inhales also needs to be considered to master the hook up operation. Not all barra race off on inhalation. Some sit still like wet socks facing the angler. You need firm drag and fast hook sets to combat this. Any flaws in technique in this case will result in many dropped fish. Happy Honing. It is all I can do from here, maybe one day in a camp ground we can go over a few things that may help.

Yea, stocking is down, and mindsets on killing big fish will always exist, with or without proof of their detriment in individual fisheries. As long as stocking groups have a long range plan, and stick to it, things should work out ok. When the stocking stops, that is the hurdle! But that isn't the reason for the current problem.
Our lakes still have tonnes of fish in them, and we really need to let nature run its course with living conditions, as it won't matter how many fish are stocked- as the seasonal conditions and other variables have added up to create a circumstance less favourable at present. Awoonga has been stocked for over 13 years; any fishery has ups and downs in its history. I have heard a number of saltwater anglers who get excited with commercial fishing closures, and some forms of fishing being stopped, and they are like eager beavers awaiting the next years' hot season, to 'kill the pig', that doesn't come. Why; each year and season is different, some suit other animals better than others. Shark attacks are talk of plenty at present. Next year it might be marlin central of the beaches. Who knows what is in stall next year with weather variables. It may just be spot on for mighty barra.
Stocking groups are interesting people to sit and listen to.
Join one and add your valued input.

The world of lakes is constantly changing; something that we have always recognised. The guidelines that control fish behaviour in a landlocked pond is way out of our control. The numbers of fish in Awoonga is astounding. In 42ft, one day early this week, the volume of fish my clients fished on was amazing. They had strikes, but none were boated. Stocking numbers are down on earlier years, but I do not believe a quick re-stock is the instant fix. Time, and nature's way has the final say on what environment is created for the fish to live in, in a waterway that is bound by land and dictated by weather conditions. Like all lakes, they have prime periods and tough periods- just like the paddocks on 'Farmer Bill's' property.
Giving any fishery a spell is important. Rest periods and allowing time for fish to 'chill out' is essential, but in lakes, that may never happen. Mother Nature provides the best 'spell periods' in the form of harsh weather periods, cool winters and tough living conditions. In time, things change, but yes, mass boats, and noisy approaches, and continuous traffic, and continued fishing effort on barra lakes is the double edged sword. We could write a list of things that will change, and things that won't.
I believe a mega flood will improve conditions, but will it happen this year?
Some of the quality barra being landed is still eye- popping, and it is times like this when every trick in the book needs to be used to gain the upper hand, or to give the best chance possible. It tests us all, keeps us thinking, and most importantly, it keeps our heads on future goals and it conditions ourselves to the levels required to stay in good stead as a level headed barra fisherman. There is no place for a soft angler in the barra game who wants to fish day in day out. Those that stay through the tough periods come out way better conditioned and improved anglers. It was only yesterday that I sat and talked to Awoonga guide, Rod Harrison, who, had a very large gold fish bowl with two dozen finely tuned, delicately rigged barra lures within. The alterations in play, and the concepts in mind showed a thinking angler staying closely tuned to a changing fishery. A string of large fish for clients recently stands as support to his crafty artwork. To eliminate doughnuts, diversity in fishing applications is essential. I haven't tied on so many lures this year as ever before. The effort applied to get fish on lines has tripled, but if an angler is willing, there is a way.
Johnny

Without going for a lengthy reply, I would tend to look towards water chemistry and it's follow on effects. Droughts, and changing waterways in several impoundments have reached a balancing point, in a cycle that has ups and downs. At the moment it is on a downer in the southern stream. Weather the storm, and be ready when things improve. Chemical changes and seasonal variations do occur. Vegetation- that's another talk topic. Update. September 2009, Awoonga is fishing extremely well.

Paulo,
Even in hammered fisheries, many fish will still be caught by switched on anglers. I believe the lake fisheries slowed down way too quickly in late 2008 for it to be blamed on fishing pressure alone; especially when at least 3 different lakes with light to heavy fishing pressure were involved. Some local Awoonga guides had charters with 16-21 fish in afternoon sessions. A hidden cause, based on a multitude of reasons, but strongly connected to an issue related to water quality was the first noticeable change. A water rise of 2 metres in Awoonga saw some great fishing return, but, with that, the aquatic plants boomed again, and now, those same booming plants are dying off in a big way. The cycle again needs to run its course. When will it stop, or break the cycle, is the million dollar question.

Update - By late Winter 2009, Awoonga climbed back on track. By September and October 2009, Awoonga was fishing superbly with great numbers being landed, and some giant fish up to 130cm long.
JM